Climbing & Mountaineering

East Face Direct Direct

It was back up into Lochain today with Guy and John to continue the mixed climbing bonanza. We had hoped to climb Central Grooves VII,7***, but there was already a team starting up it. We went for our second option of East Face Direct Direct VII,7***, which was outstanding.

John linked the first 2 pitches to make a good sustained pitch. Guy then did a awesome job leading up through the bold roof , and then the steep turf to the steep corner of the final pitch. That meant I had the easy pitch of the day, which was still a steep, sustained corner that was still VI,6/7. An awesome route.

Other teams were on the usual classic IV's and a Euro team climbed Unicorn. There has been a lot of snow blown into the corie, so take care if you are heading out.

A couple of pics on my blog.

Add a Comment

You need to be a member of YorkClimbers.com to add comments!

Join YorkClimbers.com

Comment by Martin Haworth on January 20, 2012 at 21:48: Will do, 3 of us heading up at the moment. I expect we will head to the Ben or Glencoe Saturday.

Comment by Adam Hughes on January 20, 2012 at 21:32: We are due to have a pretty wintery week, so things should be pretty good. Give a buzz if ypur west and we can catch up for a brew or something.

Comment by Martin Haworth on January 20, 2012 at 21:20: I'm heading up next weekend, fingers crossed conditions hold out.

Comment by Adam Hughes on January 20, 2012 at 21:03: Cheers. 2 amazing days, wanted to do both routes for a while. Nice to do unicorn ground up at least, gutted the hook blew.