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Trying to find a hook over the crux roof


Today John and I were keen to get a route in before the temperature shot up.  Despite the avalanche risk being High, we opted to go to Aonach Mor, hoping to climb Alien Abduction VII,8**.  Armed with a bit of local knowledge we abseiled in, kicking through the cornice as we went.  The route looked awesome, so we got stuck straight in.  After John led the first pitch, I got into the main event which was extremely bold to start..  A runner at the base of the corner was the only comfort for the thin icy mixed climbing until the crux 15m up.  Thankfully, I managed to clear a crack out and get a cluster of gear before taking on the crux roof.  Thin icy hooks with very poor feet took me through the roof, followed by more thin climbing to some good gear (eventually).  I was soon at the belay with a great pitch behind me and only easy ground ahead.  John romped up this as things started to drip.

A great route on a marginal day, awesome!

Almost there!

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Comment by John proctor on January 26, 2012 at 15:54

Awesome! yea looks it. looks like your Rokin at the mo AR kid

Comment by Tony Holdsworth on January 26, 2012 at 8:58

Will send you a text on the way up if we go that way. Still doing things just getting good at taping!

Comment by Adam Hughes on January 26, 2012 at 8:34
If you pass through the fort hive me a shout. Get using that finger asap and it will recover quicker, with less scaring.
Comment by Tony Holdsworth on January 26, 2012 at 8:27

Held up by a stupid finger problem caused by foolish campusing at the moment. A nice warm trip to climb in Morocco planned for March though. I'll be up in Torridon at half term.

Comment by Adam Hughes on January 25, 2012 at 13:49
Cheers. It's nice when the weather and days off match up, means you get a run at things which helps. Hope your still getting things done down there.
Comment by Tony Holdsworth on January 25, 2012 at 12:12

Impressive stuff Adam, looks like you are managing much more personal climbing than last year.

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